Secret
Gataways in the Andaman
By John Everingham
Koh Lipe, Satun
This
beautiful little island far out in the Andaman Sea is just right
for those who have time and who are eager
to push the limits. Getting
there takes time, but those who do so will not be bothered by crowds.
Aside from one of the best-known “sea gypsy” villages in
the area, there are just three simple bungalow establishments on the
island. Lipe is part of an island group protected by their distance
from shore and thus little damaged by loggers. The forests on the larger,
neighbouring islands are in beautiful condition, although unfortunately
the same cannot be said of the coral reefs. During the 1980s the area’s
reefs were devastated by dynamite fishing, though today many fringing
reefs have grown back, and the snorkelling can be delightful.
The distance
from the mainland ensures that the water here is always exceptionally
clear.
To really enjoy the many deserted beaches, the forests and waterfalls
on the other islands in this area, the visitor needs to rent a longtail
boat from Lipe for a full day’s trip.
Getting there isn’t so difficult during the October-May high
season. It just takes time.
The best access is from Thama Lang Pier,
just south of Satun Town. A boat leaves daily at 11.00am. Pak Bara
Pier also has a boat leaving daily at 11.00am, but this one takes longer.
During the May-October southwest monsoon season boat services are erratic,
ceasing operations when the sea is too high. The bungalows do remain
available for those who can get there,
but bring your own food supplies
or be prepared to buy food from fishermen and small stores in the gypsy
village on the north shore.
Koh Adang, Satun
The
little-known bungalows on this larger island, the main one in the
Koh Adang National Park group, are controlled by the National Parks
Division, through which bookings must be made in advance by telephone.
These rooms have even fewer guests than those on nearby Koh Lipe, except
during Thai national holidays, when most national parks in Thailand
have to handle huge influxes of local visitors. All national park accommodations
in the Andaman Sea close from the
end of June till the 1st of November.
Take the same boats that run to Koh Lipe (see above). At Lipe, hire
a longtail to cross the channel to Koh Adang. Sometimes one can catch
a national parks boat. Ask about boats when calling to book.
Koh Tarutao, Satun
The only accommodation on this large, mountainous island lies on the
northwestern corner, at the national park headquarters. Since the whole
island is a national park, no private operators are allowed here, and
in fact there are no buildings or habitation on the island save those
of the parks. Long and rugged, with a ridge of mountains running the
length of the island, Tarutao makes a rare haven for wildlife. Illegal
logging and animal hunting, rampant in the 1980s, seem to have stopped,
and the island is now a favourite for bird and animal watchers. There
are several trails, including one right across the island, providing
access to the beautiful rain forests that clothe most of the island
and to extensive mangrove swamps down the east coast.
Boats leave from Pak Bara Pier daily in the high season, and you
can readily hire one’s own boat for the trip. Those eager to
get about and explore can hire a longtail for several days; expect
to pay
1,500-2,000 baht per day.
Koh Bulon, Satun
This
island is one of those little-known gems that one usually hears
of only by word of mouth. While some backpackers
have discovered it,
as yet few people are visiting. The island is quite small and isolated,
making it ideal for those really wanting a quiet, do-little escape.
There’s a beautiful beach on the east side of the island, and
some nice fringing reefs. Other than swimming, snorkelling, relaxing
under the palms, reading, soaking up the sun and eating good Thai seafood,
there isn’t a lot to do. Three resorts, all very small, offer
accommodation.
One of them is going up-market.
Getting there in the high season is straightforward, while during the
monsoon season the resorts simply close down. There is a daily boat
from Pak Bara Pier at 2.00pm in the high season.
Koh
Ngai, Koh Kradan, Koh Muk -Trang
After the big three – Phuket, Phi Phi and Lanta – these
three gems off the coast of the coast of Trang are perhaps the best-known
of the Andaman coast islands. There are several resorts to choose from,
but they’re far enough apart and the islands big enough to offer
plenty of space and private sand. Koh Ngai has several small bungalows
north of the one substantial establishment listed here, but it is never
quite sure whether they’ll open each season. Koh Muk has the
most habitation, with a large Thai fishing village on the north coast
and a quaint little settlement on the east side. Koh Kradan sees
few people outside the resort. All three islands have beautiful beaches
with fringing coral reefs. Koh Ngai is lined with dramatic limestone
cliffs along the west coast.
The three resort destinations remain open during the monsoon season,
but getting there will prove difficult when the ocean is roughest.
Remember, however, that probably half of the time during the monsoon
season remains quite sunny and pleasant, with only moderate seas.
Since these three islands aren’t too far off the coast, getting
there isn’t particularly difficult. You have to find your way
from Trang Town to Pak Meng, which isn’t too difficult, since
it’s just 40km away and the best-known beachside port in this
province. There’s a minibus service from the town to Pak Meng
for 30 baht a head; the van usually leaves when it’s full. From
the large pier at Pak Meng, longtails or, sometimes, even speedboats
can be hired to take you to any island at any time. Expect to pay a
longtail about 1,000 baht for a one island drop-off, or 1,500 baht
for the day – a good deal for a group. In the high season, there’s
a passenger ferry leaving at 9.30am at 200 baht per person
| Koh
Poda, Krabi This is the first island off the Krabi coast at Phra Nang, a destination for many daytrip boats. Krabi Villa operates a set of comfortable bungalows. When the daytime crowds return to the mainland, this island is truly delightful. |
Koh Bu Bu, Krabi
Bu Bu, a small island with one 12-unit bungalow operation, lies
between the eastern coast of
Koh Lanta and the mainland. It makes
a tranquil
sojourn for those seeking a getaway, a chance to lie back in
a hammock, swim a little, or maybe hike around the island (about
an hour).
Open
from mid-October until about mid-April. During the rainy season
you can stay on the island, but call ahead first to check. And
you must
pack in all food and supplies, since the kitchen
is closed then
as well.
To get to Bu Bu, take the ferry from Koh Phi Phi or Krabi Town
to Saladan on Koh Lanta.
If you've called ahead, the Bu Bu boatman
will meet you
at Saladan to take you through the mangrove estuary between Lanta
Noi and Lanta Yai and over to Bu Bu. Or from Saladan go to
Old
Lanta Town
and Bu Bu House, located on the main road parallel to the sea,
and they'll contact the island for you.
Koh Racha, Phuket
This island, lying directly south of Phuket, is one that comes very
close to the standard idyllic tropical dream: no roads, no shops, lots
of coconuts, clear waters with colourful reefs, and stunning beaches
of soft sand. The main beach on the northwestern corner of the island
is quite small, and is lined with simple bungalows that cost about
500 baht in the high season and
200 baht in the low season. No bookings;
just turn up.
Ban Raya is the one better-quality resort with more comfortable bungalows,
set apart on the east coast amid delightful coconut groves. This relaxing
resort specializes in diving and snorkelling, since it doesn’t
have much of a beach. But the location on a hill overlooking the sea
makes up for this. Walking tracks through coconut groves criss-cross
the top end of the island, and provide access to the two main beaches.
Note that this island is called both Racha and Raya
Koh Lon, Phuket
This
island is one of the closest to Phuket, providing part of the protection
for the Chalong Bay yacht harbour.
Despite its proximity,
this is a surprisingly quiet and pretty island, with one small but
comfortable resort. You can easily sleep on this island and cross to
Phuket during the day to tour. The resort is hidden among coconut palms
on Koh Lon’s protected northern side, and is thus accessible
in all weather. The view from here back to Phuket is a delight.
Cruiser Island Resort have an office in a shophouse just before the
main Chalong jetty, and run regular boats back and forth for their
guests.
Koh Phra Thong (Golden Buddha Island) Phang Nga
Those with a New Age-style environmental awareness will like the new
developments on this large island off the coast well north of Phuket.
The only resort here is actually an estate of private houses available
for rent while the owners are away. The resort urges guests not to
bring water bottles or any packaging - it pollutes their island. The
island is also home to fishing families.
Longtail boats can be rented to the island from the Koh Phra Thong
Pier 7km north of Kuraburi,
a 2.5hr drive north of Phuket.
Similan Islands Phang Nga
The
beautiful turquoise waters surrounding this chain of small islands
far off the Andaman coast have made this a
solid favourite among divers.
Diveboats are often packed into the two main anchorages here. Though
quite beautiful, the few beaches here are small, and there isn’t
a lot to do on the islands for non-divers. We recommend this for divers,
but not for others.
For those who need onshore accommodation, the National Parks provide
two sets of basic bungalows and tents, one on Island #4 and one on
Island #8. On Thai national holidays these are invariably crowded with
students, and the beaches come alive at night with campfire songfests.
They close during the monsoon season, from the end of June till 1 November.
Koh Yao Noi Phang Nga
Situated
right in the middle of spectacular Phang Nga Bay, this is one of
our favourite islands. From any of
the four resorts here, endless
places present themselves for exploration by boat, and there’s
plenty to do right on the island itself. Bringing a mountain bike to
discover the small roads and rough tracks of Koh Yao Noi is a smart
idea.
There’s a large village (or small town) in the middle of the
island, connected to the large concrete pier in the channel separating
the two Yao islands. The west coast has villages and rice fields, while
the east is covered in rubber plantations. Only the north is too rugged
for habitation, with some delightful little bays and beaches nestling
between soaring limestone cliffs typical of
Phang Nga. They are only
accessible by boat.
Passenger ferries connect Koh Yao Noi to Bang Rong Pier, on Phuket’s
northeastern corner. There’s always a ferry leaving Phuket late
morning, and others leave occasionally during the day. At the main
jetty on the island, you can always find a motorcycle taxi or tuk-tuk
willing to carry you over the tracks to the resorts, all of them situated
along the east coast.
Koh Yao Yai Phang Nga The
largest island off Phuket, Koh Yao Yai is also the most isolated,
with only rudimentary accommodation available in three tiny
resorts. It makes for ideal backpacking territory. |
 |
Mu Ko Surin National Park
Mu Ko Surin national Park is laocated in Kuraburi District, and is
comprised of five island : Ko Surin North, Ko Surin South, Ko Ri, Ko
Kai and Ko Klang. The islands are rich with shallow coral reefs, some
of the most beautiful and perfect in Thailand.
The fastest route to the park is from the fishing harbour at Ban Hin
Lat around
Pak Khlong Nang Yon (called Khlong Tung Nang Dam by local
people), and takes 4 to 5 hours.
The dirt road heading to the fishing
harbour is about 1 kilometre off Ranong - Ta Kua Pa Road. From Ranong
Province, Ban Hin Lat School marks the junction at Km 110. From there,
continue
50 metres along the road heading towards Kuraburi District.
It takes around 7 hours from
Kapur in Ranong Province.
When to visit - Where to stay
The most suitable period to visit this area is between December and
April. Accommodation is provided by the national park. For more details,
call tel. (076) 491-378, 579-0529, 579-4842.
Chao Mai Beach National Park
Chao Mai, a short but beautiful name, can mean either village, canal,
beach, cave, mountain,
or island. The Chao Mai Beach National Park
covers an area of 230.8 square kilometres,
and comprises a variety
of tranquil islands, such as Ko Waen, Ko Chuak, Ko Kradan, Ko Pling,
Ko Chao Mai and Ko Meng. In addition to many wild orchids, blackstork
cranes, and the rare dugongs that have become a symbol of the park's
wildlife conservation efforts, Chao Mai is rich in shallow coral life
and sparkling clear waters, and is very popular among swimmers and
snorkellers alike.
Although 'Chao Mai' refers to one specific area, the National Park
Office which goes by the same name is located in Sikao District and
Kantang District, 59 kilometres from Trang Province on the coastal
route to Pak Meng. A car rental service is provided at Tha Phe and
Tha Som, and
a big raft is also available for the 47 kilometres to
Kantang.
Chao Mai Cave is a must for any visitor to Chao Mai beach, and proper
viewing times can be recommended by local boat owners who must negotiate
muddy forest stretches to reach the cave's entrance. Fresh seafood
on the island is excellent, and visitors may purchase boiled crab meat
which is shipped to provincial markets.
When to visit - Where to stay
December to April, shortly after the monsoon season, is the best time
to visit this area. Accommodation is provided by the National Park,
which also services the Tourist Centre, rest areas, restrooms and campgrounds.
The National Park Division should be contacted in advance at tel. 579-
0529,579-4842.
Tarutao National Park
Tarutao is a national marine park comprises 51 islands scattered about
the Malacca Straits in the Andaman Sea and the Indian Ocean around
Muang District, Satun Province. The location of the park was once used
as a penal colony for political prisoners before 1937. It is divided
into 2 groups of islands: Mu Ko Tarutao and Mu Ko Adang- Ravi.
Ko Tarutao features many impressive mountains with steep cliffs along
the eastern coast dropping down to flat muddy beaches. Longer, picturesque
sandy beaches are found on Ao Phante Malacca, and active coral reefs
are plentiful around the 15 foot diving area off Papillon Cliff. Tobu
Cliff presents panoramic views of the island, while Ao Son houses no
less than three waterfalls. Stunning Charake Cave is accessible by
boat along Ma lacca Canal. Ko Adang-Ravi's mountainous slopes provide
a good day's hiking, and its coast is sprinkled with fine white sandy
beaches and beautiful corals. Ko Hin Ngam is simply a must, with naturally
polished stones adorned in decorative patterns scattered about the
beach. Diving areas include sites around Ko Jabang, east of Ko Hin
Ngam, Ao Taloriba, south of Ko Adang and the southern coast of Ko Ravi.
The most practical way to reach Tarutao National Park is by boat from
Pak Bara Pier in La-ngu District, the closest pier.
When to visit - Where to stay
High season in this area falls roughly from November to April; however,
the pier serviced by the park at Ao Talowao is to the east of the islands,
rendering it safe from the monsoon year round. Accommodation is offered
by the National Park at 3 locations: Ao Phante Malacca, Ao Son on Ko
Tarutao, and Laem Son on Ko Adang.
